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Cobbles of Ill Repute

5.10, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
FA: Walt Whetham, Jason Halladay, Hagen Telg
New Mexico > El Rito > Little River Wall > Main Wall

Description

Easier climbing to the steep headwall at mid-height. Stay on steep wall for 5.10+ (recommended) or escape right for 5.8 loose (not recommended). Probably the loosest route on the wall still so use caution, avoid, or help clean it up a bit more.

Location

Second route to left of obvious chimney in the middle of the main wall. Goes to chain anchors that face the river (south) on a small tombstone/pillar feature at the top of the wall. Look for dog tag at the base of the route identifying this route.

Protection

11 bolts to anchors on obvious small tower/tombstone feature at top. The anchors for this route can be identified more easily because they are chains without lowering biners and face the river.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J B
5.10+
[Hide Comment] Got freaked out when I grabbed a loose block near the top. Upon further examination it appears to be wedged in. It wiggles a lot when you grab it. There are enough good holds around it to avoid it though. I agree the crux section is strenuous, but the fact that I managed to get through with only a few grunts, leads me to believe it is 5.10, just a hard ten. Aug 3, 2014
[Hide Comment] Definitely a lot of loose rock on this one. I whipped when a solid-feeling hold popped out. I was then pretty freaked out for the last 30 feet where everything really does look bad.

Not sure about the description/grade for this route. Most people in my party felt it would be VERY hard to stick strictly to the face. Most of us used some arete holds while staying in reach of the bolt line, and without fully going onto the arete until higher up, and it still felt around 10+. Maybe some face holds have broken off? I know we pulled off at least three.

Also I hate when a route description gives two options like this one. Most of the time it's not obvious which line you've taken. Why not place the bolts further left and get rid of the 5.8 "option?" And at what point is it okay to go onto the arete but still call it 10+? You have to go onto the arete at some point... These options always seem to create ambiguity.

This could be a great route with a lot more cleaning. Mar 30, 2015