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Routes in Main Wall

Baby Disco Show S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Better than a Slap in the Belly with a Wet Fish S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bit By The Bit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bloody Turnip S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Busted By Dewey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chronostasis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cobbles of Ill Repute S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crestone Puddin' S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Everybody Jae Chang Tonight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goiter Grabber S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hawg-Dawg's Mind-Boggling Explosion of Fun and Excitement feat. David Hasselhoff S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hello Nasty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imitation Strawberry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joy-Poppin' with Bubble Gummers S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Mongers for the Win S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinch and Roll S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pull the Mirrors Off Your Cadillac (So it Doesn't Look Like You Look Back) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Walt Whetham, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 602 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 27, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Long climbing up wall just left of big corner. Keep on truckin' with crux pulling up overlap about halfway up. Still potentially a bit loose, use caution. Take the shot!

Location

The first route to the left of the huge chimney/cleft in the middle of the main wall.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors

Photos

skelldify  
 
First bolt placement is iffy, I'd skip it.

Sticking to the bolt line felt considerably harder than 5.8 around the 3rd/4th bolt. Some people went a bit left of the line and said it felt easier. Mar 30, 2015
Following the bolt line felt much harder than other 5.8's like Super Arete. Jun 10, 2015
Matt Klosterman
  5.8+
Matt Klosterman  
  5.8+
I agree with the above commenters. There are two sections on this route that climb harder than 5.8.

The more challenging sections are at bolt 3/4 and a little higher where you have to pull an obvious bulge using a huge flake. Around bolt 9/10 pay attention for the anchors which are to climber's right of the bolt line.

This route is one of the more challenging 5.8 sport climbs I've experienced in NM. Oct 5, 2015
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.9
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.9
This route feels way harder than 5.8. My 11 year old was leading it and had to back down off the bolt above the bulge (number 7, I think). She couldn't clip it from the good feet and jugs, so beware if you're a shorter new leader. She redpointed 2 5.11s on this trip and felt this was at least 5.9. Aug 29, 2018

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