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Routes in Laurel Mountain

East Rib - North T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guilty As Charged WI4 M2 R
Hai'nanu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Mendenhall Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4300 ft, 7 pitches, Grade V
FA: Kristoffer Wickstrom, Preston Rhea - 7.26.14
Page Views: 931 total, 23/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Jul 26, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Paiute Indians call Convict Lake "Wutsunupa" - lake in a dent in the ground; or an old legend names it "Tuvaimawiye'e" - lake that follows the enemy. Hai'nanu, a Paiute boy disrespected the lake and challenged its power. The lake chased him up into the mountains and Hai'nanu escaped the high water only by jumping through a hole in the sky.

The route follows weaknesses up the right side of the main wall of the Sevehah cliff and then a long ridge to the summit. There are three bolts on route. All the belays are at stances and most are well protected from loose rock.

Pitch 1 - Move up and left over black 3rd class slabs to the corner where the black and white rock meet. Moderate but hard to protect climbing up the corner eventually pinches down and steepens. Traverse right at this point to a sloping ledge with a bolt for the belay. 40m

Pitch 2 - Traverse left back into the corner system and follow it up until an option to move right into a steep crack on the face. Spectacular sustained climbing eventually eases off to a small ledge for the belay. 65m

Pitch 3 - Climb up and right into a right facing corner. Steep climbing leads to an amazing hand crack in the dihedral. Belay at obvious ledge above the dihedral. 55m

Pitch 4 - Traverse right along a sloping ledge to another corner. Climb in the corner either using the crack in the back or the crack on the face to the right. After 15m this eases off to an easier angle. Belay on the largest ledge at the start of a massive right facing dihedral. One bolt on the ledge. This would make a spectacular bivy. 55m

Pitch 5 - Climb the dihedral until a small ledge with a bolt. This is probably the crux pitch. 50m

Pitch 6 - Traverse right over sloping ledges into a shallow corner. Moderate climbing leads up to a point where the corner steepens and there are choices to move left, stay center, or traverse right onto white rock; move right on the steep blocks. Belay at a good stance above the blocks. 60m

Pitch 7 - Easy terrain off the belay steepens into hard to protect but moderate face climbing on the left side of a very deep gully. When possible traverse into the upper part of the gully aiming for the notch with the suspended chockstone. Belay where practical. 65m

From the top of pitch 7, traverse right into a large gully and make for the ridge. Follow the ridge for 3000' (this is approximate linear distance, not vertical climbing) passing the 5 pillars of Jenga along the way making for the summit. The ridge is mostly 3rd class with some 4th and occasional 5th.

Location

Follow the trail up from Convict Lake until directly below the route. Climb the talus aiming for a ledge with a small group of trees. 3rd class slabs lead up and right from the trees around a tower and then back to the left to the base of the route. The start of the route is where the black rock meets the white in a large corner system.

To descend follow easy slopes down to the north of the summit back to the lake. The proper descent method is to escape into the sky by flying off; not doing so invalidates the ascent.

Protection

The first ascent party did the route in big wall style. The rack was triples from small cams to big (.1-3), a standard set of nuts, and a good selection of each size of beak (15 #3, 3 #2, 3 #1).
Kevin Mokracek
Burbank
Kevin Mokracek   Burbank
I was up at Convict today looking at that part of the face and the long ridge to the left of your climb wondering if anything has been done on it. Strong work, cant wait to go check it out. Aug 4, 2014
Preston Rhea
Mammoth Lakes
 
Preston Rhea   Mammoth Lakes
 
The route could go free at 5.10+ to 5.11. A free rack for the climb should still include a selection of beaks and hammers as they are useful for anchors and some of the otherwise unprotectable cracks.

If going for a big wall style ascent, good bivy ledges can be found at the top of pitch 3 off to the side of the route and at the top of pitch 4. After pitch 7, ledges can be found all over the place. Jul 26, 2014