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Apron

5.10b, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 31 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Windy Slab

Description

Another good line, start up on the small ledge, and move right around the underclings. Smear your way up to the large roof. Go left and follow the splitter crack onto the roof to the anchor.

Location

4th bolted climb from the left

Protection

5 bolts + anchor with chains

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Hoechlin
Dayton, NV
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] A .5 BD Camalot C4 (purple) fits in the roof perfectly, but it's easier to reach up and clip the bolt on top. The splitter crack can be protected by nuts or smaller cams if you feel the need. Oct 4, 2014
jmchale
 
[Hide Comment] Extra protection is overkill on this route. Great if you're sharpening your skills for trad climbing, but once at the ceiling the crack holds are huge. Follow the crack all the way to the top. Arguably the best sport climb at windy... Aug 21, 2016
John Brown
vancouver
 
[Hide Comment] spicy and tiny edges and terrible hands but so fun when you get up to the roof and protects well to anchor Apr 6, 2020
Jacob Culver
Portland, OR
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The bottom of this route is like the perfect mix of crimp and slab. You feel like a hero standing and pulling on credit card crimps without actually having to crank that hard. And the roof is just so much fun. May 27, 2020
[Hide Comment] Best route at the crag, hands down. Perfectly safe to lead without trad gear with the bolt added above the roof. Jun 3, 2020
[Hide Comment] This route is my favorite at the crag! I've climbed it several times and it's not a classic, IMHO, but absolutely genius on the developer's side of the equation. Jim Walker had a beautiful vision when he bolted this route; it's simply stellar. The rock is bomber, albeit slippery due to constant rainy days that make this obscure and tiny crag feel like you're trying to paste and smear on marbles.

Choose the wrong feet --> going for a ride!

I'd make sure you're well endowed technically before you rush toward this route because it feels precarious because of being polished. And rock is hard to read at this spot, like many crags in the PNW. Be confident leading 5.10+ or be warned. Overall, my opinion is that this is by far the best climb at the crag, (I give it 3-stars). The finishing crack moves are e-p-i-c! Jun 30, 2022