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Epiclepsy
5.10+ X,
TR, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.5 from 4
votes
FA: Kevin Bein, Mark Robinson, Barbara Devine, Roy Kligfield
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> d. Strictly - The Cei…
Description
Nice 5.7-5.8 face climbing leads up to and over a big roof. [Note, we only did the first pitch, Williams describes a second pitch also]
Location
Look straight up from the start of
Strictly. The lip of the huge roof above you has some little right facing corner-breaks in it, about 12-15' right of the Strictly P1 bolts. Note, the bigger corner/break in line with the Shockley's starting corner is too far right.
Protection
Begin by gaining the
Strictly From Nowhere anchor, noting that Strictly sees a lot of traffic. Set up the bolts to TR, and step right over the tree. A directional can be set about 12' straight right of the bolts. I got a green, red, and yellow C4 right next to each other in a flare about 5' above the lip. The flare would also take a #3 C4.
This would be a mighty serious lead. There is no gear between the ledge at 2/3 height and the end of the route.
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Boulder, CO