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Routes in Upper Division Wall

Algorithm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bender S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bewildering Minute, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Left for Dead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Neural Processor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Debris S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Rhythm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Neal Carrol
Page Views: 319 total, 8/month
Shared By: bheller on Jul 23, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Fun, easy, and steepish climbing leads up to the 4th bolt where a great bouldery sequence awaits on the clean slab below the first roof. If you have very small fingers you will find the two shallow mono's usable and enjoyable. If your fingers are larger than normal, this sequence will become much more difficult. (I was able to find an alternative, but the mono sequence is way cooler!). Above the monos, cop a good stem rest in the shallow corner, and then blast through the steeps above with very big, great moves on pockets. Here awaits the redpoint crux. Next move a bit right, and try to get a good shake off the hand shelf with poor feet, and then commit to the final little bouldery section before clipping the chains. A great route!

Location

This route is the rightmost of the "cave" routes, beginning off the right side of a large boulder and climbing up overhanging moves on sinker pockets and edges for the first two bolts with gray Petzl hangers. Continue straight up at the 3rd bolt on gray Fixe Hangers. (The Petzl hangers continue up and right for "Empty Your Pockets" (12c), and yet another route branches right again off "Empty Your Pockets" at bolt 6 or so- its called "Bender" (12c). A 35m gym rope will get you down TBM:)

Protection

Well bolted- 9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

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Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Such a good route! It does have a little of everything! I thought the slab section was pretty chill, but the section above the roof is where it earned the grade. Oct 11, 2016
Lotapowder
Sandy
  5.12c
Lotapowder   Sandy
  5.12c
This is one of my favorite routes at the crag. It has a little bit of everything; it eases you into the pitch with some fun easy climbing on jugs, then a technical crux at the slab, a power crux over the roof and a great endurance crux at the finish. Great job on this one Neal! Aug 11, 2015