PRINT: Rock Climb Into the Mystic, Squamish

Into the Mystic

5.10c, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Jeff Thomson & David McKie (2009)
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Shannon Falls > AMO Wall

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

P1 - Paddle up the mossy and gritty slab to an anchor on a vegetated shelf.
P2 - Work up on the glassy smooth slab to the right end of a ramp-like feature below a headwall. Pull the awkward headwall and continue up and left through a gap in the vegetation to the anchor, in the middle of an expansive slab.
P3 - Continue up the slab and pull over a short, vertical wall on bouldery moves.
P4 - Pull through a low crux and paddle up the slab to the anchors, at the top of the cliff.

Location

Right side of the AMO Wall. 50 feet left (north) of "A Balancing Act."

Protection

Bolts & chain anchors (P1 - 5 bolts, P2 - 7 bolts, P3 - 4 bolts, P4 - 7 bolts).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at the 1st pitch of "Into the Mystic."

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC

5.10+

It's pretty logical to link the 3rd and 4th pitches, but we pitched out the first two because there's a ledge not too far from the p2 crux.

P2 is pretty cool. Very sequency crux, but engaging throughout. Jun 27, 2018

Mike Gagnier
Seattle, WA

Pretty much all friction slab except for the one bouldery move on P3. The route in not heavily trafficked so expect some dirty rock here and there. We originally were planning to walk off but the decent route looked incredible overgrown and hard to follow so we opted for doing three raps from the top. You can either rap this route or the route to the climbers left. May 28, 2023