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Wyoming State Bird

5.10+ R, Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Ben Rosenburg, Ben Collett, July 2014
Wyoming > Wind River Range > Little Sandy Va… > Point 11440, E Buttress

Description

This route was shockingly sustained and mostly fairly memorable.

1) Follow the handcrack in the corner until it exits onto a ledge on the right. Belay here. 5.10 90ft.

2) Step right and follow the dihedral for about 100ft to a comfy ledge and good belay below where the dihedral steepens. 5.6. It may make sense to combine 1 and 2.

3) Follow the dihedral as it steepens, then do a cruxy step right as the dihedral disappears to a belay at a good spike. 100ft. 5.10+

4) Continue above through a tricky groove until it ends. Step up into a left facing corner and follow the corner and face to its left exiting onto a good ledge. 5.10-R.

5) Continue up about 20ft to a ledge on the right. Traverse this ledge for about 80ft until below a shallow dihedral. 5.7.

6) Climb the shallow dihedral until it ends. Continue straight up for about 30 feet to a sloping ledge below a flake and corner system. 5.9 170ft.

7) Pull into the corner system. Follow it until a roof is encountered, then step right to a sloping ledge. 5.10 160ft

8) Step right and follow ever easier terrain to the summit. 5.6.

Location

This route starts around 300 feet right of Symbiosis in a shallow steep dihedral with a handcrack in the back.

Protection

Double set of cams from small to #3 camalot and one number 4 should be sufficient.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first 5 pitches of the route
[Hide Photo] The first 5 pitches of the route
Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
The start of pitch 7
[Hide Photo] The start of pitch 7