Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Point 11440, East Buttress

Wyoming State Bird T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ben Rosenburg, Ben Collett, July 2014
Page Views: 221 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jul 21, 2014
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route was shockingly sustained and mostly fairly memorable.

1) Follow the handcrack in the corner until it exits onto a ledge on the right. Belay here. 5.10 90ft.

2) Step right and follow the dihedral for about 100ft to a comfy ledge and good belay below where the dihedral steepens. 5.6. It may make sense to combine 1 and 2.

3) Follow the dihedral as it steepens, then do a cruxy step right as the dihedral disappears to a belay at a good spike. 100ft. 5.10+

4) Continue above through a tricky groove until it ends. Step up into a left facing corner and follow the corner and face to its left exiting onto a good ledge. 5.10-R.

5) Continue up about 20ft to a ledge on the right. Traverse this ledge for about 80ft until below a shallow dihedral. 5.7.

6) Climb the shallow dihedral until it ends. Continue straight up for about 30 feet to a sloping ledge below a flake and corner system. 5.9 170ft.

7) Pull into the corner system. Follow it until a roof is encountered, then step right to a sloping ledge. 5.10 160ft

8) Step right and follow ever easier terrain to the summit. 5.6.

Location

This route starts around 300 feet right of Symbiosis in a shallow steep dihedral with a handcrack in the back.

Protection

Double set of cams from small to #3 camalot and one number 4 should be sufficient.

Photos

0 Comments