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Odd Man Out
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 92 ft (28 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 328 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Alex Weber on Jul 21, 2014 |
Admins: | Braden Batsford |
Description
This is a seriously fun 5.11c sport climb, although I'm afraid it won't last for long. Two of the cruxes rely on doing side-pulls and underclings on thin flakes. Not confident those flakes are going to be around for many more years... if any.
The climb moves up some fun 5.10 climbing until you come to a small roof. Use the arete as best you can, and get a right heel hook. A semi-dynamic move will get your left hand onto another sidepull. Fix your feet, and stand up. If you find it hard to clip from this position, keep moving, as you will be rewarded with one of the only good crimps on the climb. After this you're going to do some fancy foot work and some neat side-pulls to an undercling and then stand waaaay up. After these two cruxes, it gets really thin to the top. I'm still unsure if it is possible to get to the very top without using magic...
The climb moves up some fun 5.10 climbing until you come to a small roof. Use the arete as best you can, and get a right heel hook. A semi-dynamic move will get your left hand onto another sidepull. Fix your feet, and stand up. If you find it hard to clip from this position, keep moving, as you will be rewarded with one of the only good crimps on the climb. After this you're going to do some fancy foot work and some neat side-pulls to an undercling and then stand waaaay up. After these two cruxes, it gets really thin to the top. I'm still unsure if it is possible to get to the very top without using magic...
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