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Routes in Pedra Escrita / Writing Stone

Bare Claw T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meatgrinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roadside Attraction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: P. Murdock, 19 July 2014 (5.10 C1) FFA: Alex Honnold (onsight solo), Ted Hesser, Maury Birdwell, 2015
Page Views: 300 total, 7/month
Shared By: Pat M on Jul 21, 2014
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Description

Somebody needs to come here and visit who has more thin-tips skills than me. This right-leaning finger crack is incredible, but starts off with about 12 feet of #0-1 TCU sized crack that I just don't have the skills to free. I'm guessing it will go free at solid 5.12 thin crack. After that, the crack expands to perfect fingers thru tight hands as you get higher. The angle also eases off slightly in the middle then gets vertical again at the top. The business ends at a small ledge, with another 10 feet of easy hands on a slab to the summit. Anchor is 10 feet left of the top of the crack to aid cleaning.

Location

Left side of taller rock (Pedra Escrita 'proper') as approached from village. Obvious right leaning finger crack visible from the road. You cannot miss it.

Protection

0 TCU or similar
Doubles #1 TCU - # 2 Camelot, with emphasis on #3 TCU and 0.5-0.75 Camelot.
2-bolt belay anchor (not suitable for toprope without extra long webbing).

Photos

MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
FFA: Alex Honnold (onsight solo), Ted Hesser, Maury Birdwell. 5.11b/c
Some committing and thin opening moves to get established on the slabbier part of the wall. Gets easier the higher you go! Sep 15, 2015