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The Worrier or The Warrior

5.10d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 0.5 from 13 votes
FA: Jason Halladay
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Frog Prince
Warning Access Issue: Thompson Canyon DetailsDrop down

Description

If you're a connoisseur of choss and fine position, this one's for you. The much-less-than-perfect rock on this line is just barely counter-balanced by the impressive position on a blunt arête. Gym-weaned sport climbers (or most climbers, in fact) will not enjoy the route at all until, if ever, it cleans up but if you like a little adventure in your sport climbing and enjoy a bit more of a mental battle, you're more likely to enjoy it. Find out if you're a worrier or a warrior [insert overly-dramatic music here.]

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt and pull bouldery moves on great, sharp rock at the undercut start. Enjoy the rock quality here because it only gets worse from here on up.

Delicately mantle up onto the big ledge and move up and right to get established on the rounded prow. Clip the tightly-bolted first three bolts (nobody likes a ledge fall!) and follow incredibly flaky rock and pockets to the steep finish.

I initially thought there's good rock underneath but it seems that may not be the case-- it may never clean up. But the bolts are there now so...

It's not dangerous--the closely-spaced bolts are in solid rock and the big chunks are gone--but for sure you'll pull some stuff off. Remember, you didn't have to climb it--that was your choice.

Location

The first route on the left as you walk towards the Birth Canal area on the east side of the Frog Prince area.

Protection

10 bolts to chains with biners. Belayers may consider a helmet as the route is constantly exfoliating. But after a five-hour cleaning session, the big dangers have been removed. Also, the undercut start keeps the belayer well-protected from flaky bits that will fall off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Such great position and location, such shitty rock. Yet I climb it every trip to the Tower with the stubborn hope it'll clean up. September 2017.
[Hide Photo] Such great position and location, such shitty rock. Yet I climb it every trip to the Tower with the stubborn hope it'll clean up. September 2017.
Nearing the anchors, July 2014.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the anchors, July 2014.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karasu Tokioka
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] This route was so flaky and so much chauce. Literally every move you make, something breaks off. Even the pockets that are there are filled with grit and pebbles, making them not so bomber. I definitely would not climb this again Jan 8, 2015
skelldify
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This route is aesthetic, tall, sustained, has great movement, and a lot of loose/flaky rock! My partner and I were both constantly raining down crumbs and up to golfball-sized rocks. We also each pulled off a good softball plus sized chunk. Seems to be the worst right near the top. Great route otherwise! May 21, 2016
David Baltz
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Total choss pile! Dec 30, 2017
Frank Stein
Picayune, MS
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed it for the booty...still very chossy. Jun 21, 2021