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> Aiguille de l'M
South Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 0.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | FRA - Brandon, Brown and Simmons July 2014 |
Page Views: | 1,784 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Chris Simmons-Solomon on Jul 20, 2014 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
The South Ridge is a striking feature that begs to be climbed. As a member of that first recorded ascent team, I can vouch that there was little sign of it being climbed before, except for a 20+ year-old chewed up and faded white rap sling at the top of pitch two. It also features an abundance of loose, lichen-y rock that will keep it from being "classic" unless it gets a lot of traffic. This is certainly an "adventure climb"!
Pitch 1 - 20m, 4th class. Gain the South Ridge from the snowfields, then traverse aproximately 70' down and right to the start. 20m - Climb straight up to gain the ridge line. DO NOT link with Pitch 2, as your belayers will be in the fall line of any P2 rockfall.
Pitch 2 - 30m, low 5th class. Climb the ridge! Pitch ends in a small notch below a gendarme. The historic rap sling (only sign of an earlier attempt) are on the overhanging horn. Scary to think of rappelling on the that!
Pitch 3 - 30m, 5.6. Bypass the gendarme on the right, keeping to the more difficult but also more solid rock. Regain the ridge and stop just short of the notch.
Pitch 4 - 30m, low 5th class. Continue up the ridge to the cockscomb belaying just short of the summit ridge.
Pitch 5 - 30m, low 5th class. Best broken into 2 or 3 quick short pitches to the summit.
Descent: Descend the North Ridge.
Pitch 1 - 20m, 4th class. Gain the South Ridge from the snowfields, then traverse aproximately 70' down and right to the start. 20m - Climb straight up to gain the ridge line. DO NOT link with Pitch 2, as your belayers will be in the fall line of any P2 rockfall.
Pitch 2 - 30m, low 5th class. Climb the ridge! Pitch ends in a small notch below a gendarme. The historic rap sling (only sign of an earlier attempt) are on the overhanging horn. Scary to think of rappelling on the that!
Pitch 3 - 30m, 5.6. Bypass the gendarme on the right, keeping to the more difficult but also more solid rock. Regain the ridge and stop just short of the notch.
Pitch 4 - 30m, low 5th class. Continue up the ridge to the cockscomb belaying just short of the summit ridge.
Pitch 5 - 30m, low 5th class. Best broken into 2 or 3 quick short pitches to the summit.
Descent: Descend the North Ridge.
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