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Routes in Gladys Lake

Patience and Fortitude WI3-4 M2
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dale Apgar, Scott Rokis
Page Views: 415 total, 10/month
Shared By: aleday on Jul 20, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Road to Agnew Meadows is closed in the winter Details

Description

There are two parts to the climb: the bigger, pure blue ice main flow [Patience], then a second, thinner, shallower, mildly mixed pitch [Fortitude] reached half-way down the descent gully on the right.

After the long(ish) skin in, gear up, then do some ice bouldering over a bulge to the base of Patience. Difficulty is dependent on conditions and line chosen but expect WI3-4 for ~60'. Either set up an ice screw anchor for good top-down photos and partner-heckling, or boot up the snow to a tree anchor. You can either simul-climb or solo easier terrain to the readily apparent descent gully on the climbers' left.

Half-way down the descent gully lies a shorter, thinner ice smear [WI 2-3] with a small mixed section on top. Bring rock pro if desired, but none was placed on the FA before reaching a tree anchor. From the top of Fortitude, hike climbers right until regaining the same descent gully as Patience.

Finish hiking down the descent gully through snow to your gear, grab lunch and skin/boot up the neighboring couloir for great views of Banner/Ritter and a fun ski down to the San Joaquin, and your long ski out.

What's in a name? Two straight Sierra draught years required certain elements in one's character, and a dotted-line resemblance to the Beaux-Arts NYC public library guardians...

Thoughts and a recount of the FA here: http://bit.ly/patience_fortitude

Location

Follow the description on Gladys Lake. Try to scout conditions from Mammoth Mountain before committing to the long(ish) approach. On the western flanks of the San Joaquin River, on the NE-facing cliffs ~ below Gladys Lake. Its exact location and climbing condition should be apparent during the skin in.

Protection

~6 ice screws, depending on your comfort level on ice. Bring a mix, from stubbies to 16cm.

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