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Routes in Vertigo

A Clean Getaway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Housing The Sin T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Trading War Stories S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vertigo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch, belayed by Luke Ross, Lee Terveen, Jack Torness (Ground-up) 7/14
Page Views: 1,377 total · 32/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 20, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This hidden treasure climbs the bomber finger/hands crack system right between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Currently, this is the only other route that summits Vertigo. Very unique with wild and WIDE stemming and a transition from one formation to the other. I don't believe this has ever been climbed before, surprisingly. A must-do!!

1) 5.7 70'
Start in either gully and take the easiest path up to the chockstone belay in the saddle between Vertigo and Outer. Natural belay.

2) 5.11+ 130'
Two options to start. On Outer Outlet, the left crack climbs and protects better right away but has a thin traverse right to join the main line. The direct start over the roof has decking potential before you can get a second piece of gear in. Choose wisely ;). Continue to link the vertical slashes, while getting excellent gear. Just when the crack flares and gear becomes meager begin the groin stretching. Stem for about 15' up and then to the North to find another perfect crack on Vertigo that will take you to the top.

Location

Route climbs right in the center of the narrow passage between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Either rap back down the route (80m rope), or rap the original Vertigo route (one 70m rope??).

Protection

Double rack to BD#2 & single #3 (to protect beginning roof)
Nuts
Long slings

Photos

harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.11+
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.11+
One of the wildest pitches I've ever climbed! Jun 24, 2015
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Chris, You may well be correct on this. I just remember Kevin Bein talking about a line in the notch between Vertigo and Outer Outlet that would go in without bolts. Jul 30, 2014
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
 
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
 
Never saw anything in the Blue Book. Except for the 5.12- OW crack that Bein TR-ed. Right next to this line but seperate. Maybe that's what your thinking of? Jul 29, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I believe Kim Carrigan and Steve Levin might have climbed this line in the summer of 1980. Not certain but I do remember they were working on it. Maybe check in the Blue Book. Kevin Bein worked this line a bit to. Jul 29, 2014
t.schwartz
  5.11
t.schwartz  
  5.11
Mega Classic! Jul 21, 2014

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