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Routes in Vertigo

A Clean Getaway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Housing The Sin T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Trading War Stories S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vertigo T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch, belayed by Luke Ross, Lee Terveen, Jack Torness (Ground-up) 7/14
Page Views: 1,629 total · 31/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 20, 2014 with updates from Paul K.
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This hidden treasure climbs the bomber finger/hands crack system right between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Currently, this is the only other route that summits Vertigo. Very unique with wild and WIDE stemming and a transition from one formation to the other. I don't believe this has ever been climbed before, surprisingly. A must-do!!

1) 5.7 70'
Start in either gully and take the easiest path up to the chockstone belay in the saddle between Vertigo and Outer. Natural belay.

2) 5.11+ 130'
Two options to start. On Outer Outlet, the left crack climbs and protects better right away but has a thin traverse right to join the main line. The direct start over the roof has decking potential before you can get a second piece of gear in. Choose wisely ;). Continue to link the vertical slashes, while getting excellent gear. Just when the crack flares and gear becomes meager begin the groin stretching. Stem for about 15' up and then to the North to find another perfect crack on Vertigo that will take you to the top.

Location

Route climbs right in the center of the narrow passage between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Either rap back down the route (80m rope), or rap the original Vertigo route (one 70m rope??). Location Coordinates: 43.848738, -103.567899

Protection

Double rack to BD#2 & single #3 (to protect beginning roof)
Nuts
Long slings

Photos

t.schwartz
  5.11
t.schwartz  
  5.11
Mega Classic! Jul 21, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I believe Kim Carrigan and Steve Levin might have climbed this line in the summer of 1980. Not certain but I do remember they were working on it. Maybe check in the Blue Book. Kevin Bein worked this line a bit to. Jul 29, 2014
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.11+
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.11+
Never saw anything in the Blue Book. Except for the 5.12- OW crack that Bein TR-ed. Right next to this line but seperate. Maybe that's what your thinking of? Jul 29, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Chris, You may well be correct on this. I just remember Kevin Bein talking about a line in the notch between Vertigo and Outer Outlet that would go in without bolts. Jul 30, 2014
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.11+
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.11+
One of the wildest pitches I've ever climbed! Jun 24, 2015
For the rappel - we did a simul-rap with a single 70m rope from the top to get back to the saddle (i.e. beginning of P2/end of P1). At that point we tied a second rope to the first, slid the knot up a ways and then rappelled to the ground. If you do that then there's no need for the second climber to bring a tag line up pitch 2, instead they can just leave the second rope at the saddle.

Rack suggestion (BD cam sizes): #.2 (2 or 3), doubles from #.3 through #.75, and after the stem I got a #1 and #.75 in on the vertigo side (also maybe a #2 or equivalent sized hex, but it's easy climbing at that point). A #3 was handy for the P1 anchor setup too. There are two sets of bolted anchors at the top. Mar 20, 2018

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