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Routes in Sitting Bear Spire

Bearly There T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Devil's Cap T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grin and Bear it T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Invisible People T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twin Seams S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 12a S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vision Quest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Lawrence, Will Fulton, Steve Longenecker (1968)
Page Views: 1,005 total, 24/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Jul 19, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the first line that was climbed on the spire. Climb up through the overhang in the center of the East face, past a bolt and left towards a line of bolts. Additional pro can be used before and after the first bolt. After the last bolt, trend back to the right and head up to the belay rings located on the detached head. Cams can be used to protect the final moves. This route was rated a 5.8 originally. This is the easiest route to the top and could be aided if need be. Standing on top of the head of the spire provides one of the more aesthetic views of the Linville Gorge.

Location

Located on the East face, facing the trail.

Protection

Five old, dubious bolts with ample opportunity to place additional pro. Would highly recommend backing up the bolts. There is a newer set of stainless ring anchors at the top.
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Two of the bolts on this line were updated in '96 with carbon steel 5 pieces. They're quite rusty but probably still pretty bomber. The other two (original bolts) are about 50 years old and should not be trusted - and they're not needed if you place a bit of gear next to them, as mentioned above.

The first bolt shown out right in the picture is on a different route that no ones really does. It was a squeeze job of mine and has recently been removed.

The original start uses a stopper in the initial seam, left of where the bolt was, and a hand size cam in a horizontal above. This gets you to the bolt line very safely at only 5.9. The way people were doing it (by getting lured right) was probably more like 5.10. Aug 13, 2015