Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: John Drumheller, Scott Anderson (1986). Potentially earlier.
Page Views: 706 total · 13/month
Shared By: B-Mkll Mackall on Jul 19, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

An area classic and considered to be one of the better climbs of its grade in the region, this climbs up the prominent low-angle checkerboarded face visible from the road, passing jugs, the occasional crack and horizontal seam, and plenty of patina flakes reminiscent of places like City of Rocks on solid stone. Continuous and aesthetic movement and great holds the whole way up. Super enjoyable.

There is the option for a second pitch. It sees far less traffic, checks in at ledgy 5.5, and adds another 15-20 meters or so. Walk off from the top of either pitch, or double rope rap the first.

Location

Look uphill from Greek Creek and you can't miss it. The only prominent crag on the hill northwest of the campground.

Protection

If you choose to lead it on sport, this has recently been fully bolted with shiny new hardware. 8 (if I remember) bolts to crisp chains.

On gear, if you are willing to stray somewhat from the boltline, pro is very reasonable and ranges from small to medium nuts up to about a #1-#2 camalot. Great as a trad lead for beginners because if at any point you feel sketched you can just clip a bolt!

Photos

Ryan Day Thompson
Phoenix, AZ
Ryan Day Thompson   Phoenix, AZ
I'm a touch concerned about the maze of trails and erosion. It appears everyone takes a little different route to the base. I wonder if there's a way to get a more defined and marked trail...would some trail work be acceptable? Oct 10, 2015
Justin Hodges
Bozeman Montana
5.6
Justin Hodges   Bozeman Montana
5.6
We blocked some offshoot trails to try to make the singular path a bit more defined. Also be ware of ticks, between my partner and I we found over 12 in one session Apr 30, 2018