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Routes in McIntyre Creek

Desperate Measures T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Circle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Life is Suffering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Memories of Squamish T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pusher T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Worst Case Scenario T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yoga Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 66 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 63 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alex Weber on Jul 19, 2014
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Description

Start just left of the major dihedral using some side pulls and hidden underclings. Move up over the bulge using some crazy yoga moves / sidepull nonsense (crux 1). Stand on the ledge and clip the second bolt. Move up the face to the next ledge and clip the 3rd bolt out right (crux 2). From here the climb finishes through the same ending as Life is Suffering. Bring some cams for extra protection up here.

Location

Starts left of the major dihedral.

Protection

3 bolts (upgraded to 4 bolts in 2017), top anchors. Bring cams for the ending, as this is potential deck territory. Please be very cautious with this climb, as the bolts are few and far between (although possibly much safer now).

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Alex Weber  
 
Oh great to hear about the added bolt. I love safety! Jul 26, 2017
Karst
 
Karst  
 
I was here yesterday and there are now 4 bolts on this route. Three Down low and one midway up the climb, a new bolt was added between the old 1st and 2nd bolt. I'd bring some gear to protect the top where there are lots of options for placement and good positions to place gear from. Jul 26, 2017
not very fun, not very safe. Jan 4, 2017
Alex Weber  
 
I changed it to PG13 Jul 21, 2016
Also, the reach to pull on to get to the second ledge (where you can clip the third bolt) is a major reach for the vertically challenged among us ... like me. I am 5'6" and can just barely make the reach even on a good day! Jul 19, 2016
I disagree that this climb needs an 'R' rating. Clipping the second bolt has potential for a nasty ground fall but that is the case with many climbs in Yukon and elsewhere.

I would agree that gear is recommended for the top - probably a BD 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75 would do it but the placements are solid so I am not sure why there is an 'R' rating. Jul 19, 2016