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Routes in White Fang

Dandroof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleeping with Giants T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matthew Morriss, Jack Lazar
Page Views: 332 total, 8/month
Shared By: Morrismc on Jul 18, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Sleeping with Giants is on a sub formation to the right of the White Fang. Jack and I hiked all the way up intending to put up a new route on the Fang and ended up being intimidated out of the true south face and turned out attention to this smaller feature just to the right of the Fang.

The Molar may be a better name for it.

Three pitches:

P1: 5.6 approach pitch. Puts you at the bottom of the tight corner that finishes in an overhanging, flaring tight hands crack. Great stance to belay from at the top of pitch one.

P2: 5.11+ C1. Follow the corner up until the climb keep steepening, eventually the going gets tough and either super man pull your way up on flaring tight hands through what may go at 5.12 and catch the first knuckle bad finger lock with your left hand or do what I did and stand up on a nut until it allows you to gain enough purchase with your left hand to beached whale your way up to a great belay ledge.

P3: 5.7ish. Clamber left between rock and tree and then turn right up and between the rocks (caving) until you reach sandy flat spot, you can unrope here and keep going up the ridge or drop off to the east and descend down our rap anchors.

Descent:
At the top of whereever you want to stop climbing (or the top of pitch 3), rap to the east and scramble down the ridge making a few 35 m raps that end in a scramble down to the bottom of the condor buttress. When in doubt, keep heading to skiers right back to the west. There are lots of trees to rap off of

Location

Head up the approach to the bottom of the White Fang until the gulley gets steeper and wetter. At some point, there is a point at which you have to get out of the gulley to ledges on climbers right. From here keep traversing right until you end up at the base of a corner system that has an over hanging roof "hand crack" (see beta photos)

Protection

Bring a single rack to three, with a few extra finger pieces. Micro wires are nice for the single aid move, but it will probably go free for someone without a backpack on a 12ish...?

Not fixed gear on the way up, our slings on the descent should still be in place (1 single 70 m should do)

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