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Routes in Turtle Mountain

Yukon Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 328 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Brian Spear and Derek Wilding - Summer 2008
Page Views: 371 total · 7/month
Shared By: Alex Weber on Jul 18, 2014
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Description

Pitch 1 - 5.7: Head up the right-leaning ramp to the first bolt. Continue up ledges and slabby climbing to gain a belay station.
Pitch 2 - 5.6: Heads leftward up slabby climbing past a ledge with a tree. Gain the belay on an exposed ledge.
Pitch 3 - 5.4: Head up over easy slab / ledge climbing. Veers up and right past a tree to the belay station.
Pitch 4 - 5.6: From pitch 3, you will have to hike left to gain a gulley, which you then have to hike down (silly, I know). Look for bolts on the wall on the other side of the gulley. Climb up some exposed face / ledge climbing.
Pitch 5 - 5.6: Head up and left over slabs and ledges to some face climbing. Hike up to the next belay station.
Pitch 6 - 5.7 (scary): Climb up to a terribly chossy opening in the rock. Be extremely cautious: almost every rock here is loose. Head into the dihedral, carefully find some purchase, and head up and left over the lip to gain the bolt. From here it is easy climbing to the anchor.

Location

To get down, head back to the original gulley you used to gain the first pitch. Be careful and move slowly.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors at every belay station.

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