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Routes in Chichi Iwa - Father Rock

Jakuten Shugi - The Weakness Principle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moralist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ogawayama Monogatari (Story) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tajan II S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 92 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 102 total, 3/month
Shared By: Christian Storms on Jul 18, 2014
Admins: Christian Storms

You & This Route


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Description

This route could have two cruxes.
The first at the first bolt. Use the chipped out hand hold to right of the bolt. Note that is is chipped at a diagonal which makes a great place for your right foot after you've move left to set this up. The granite is slippery!
Two tiny hand holds above the bolt and also do the same thing if you have the hip flexibility for it.
Once you get this you reach with your left hand for a nice hold. Then over a ledge rest and place your next quickdraw.
Now...get ready for crux number 2?
Get your feet high in the gulley. Nice left and right hand holds but you'll need to replace your right hand with your right foot and then move left.
And now when you think it's all good you get to a big tree for another rest before loads of underclings and flakes. At least now you've got killer footholds.
And finally a nice crack!

Location

The route is fourth from the left of the slab on the left. Not the same slab as Ogawayama Story.

Protection

Bolts. Anchors.

Photos

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