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Routes in Weekender Wall

Last Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not Named S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Not Worth The Trouble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
On Your Celtic Way S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Snizzle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Subject to Chains S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Truth of the Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Use Enough Gun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vanity Fair S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Grant Walker
Page Views: 194 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jul 17, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Onomatopoeia has a black hanger located 11' off the ground. Climb pumpy moves straight up the face past a slightly overhanging bulge. More stainless steel and black painted hangers will get you to the anchor 40' up the wall.

Location

Onomatopoeia is located in a bundle of hard routes packed onto the right side of the crag.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.12a
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.12a
Sure do love pickles. I only eat DRILL pickles though. May 26, 2016
I don't think hes trolling, seems more like a vain attempt at achieving some sort of relevancy to his opinion through misguided assertion.
But.... How could you question the assertion of a "mountain project administrator" with 6 years of climbing experience? He definitely knows what he's talking about. I mean.... He's got a drill and isnt afraid to use it, how could he be wrong?!
Maybe Hes implying that Grant is getting weak? I'd like to see the "administrator" say that one to his face! May 11, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b
On similar rock certainly, similar features doubtful.. on similar rock. The features here are quite different from Wookie, Purinton(as you would know) and the other lot on the Glenn. But, my initial comment was to reflect that I went climbing with the bolting party yesterday and conversation was about the holds that had changed. That was the point. Given the fact that this wall went up before Weiner and the person speaking bolted the line, I think my comment stands as his observation. Troll on.... May 11, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.12a
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.12a
I thought this was a bit soft compared to other climbs on similar rock in the mat valley of similar grade. May 11, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b
Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Over the bulge, holds have deteriorated, yielding a crux that is thinner and goes less easily the way it did when bolted originally. Harder more straight-forward sequences emerge and up the grade a little. Approximately at .12b now.

PLUS!!!

After the last bolt and on the ramp, there is a fractured flake with a "pearl sized" chalk dimple on it.....don't grab it, it is going to go. It is completely non-essential and other holds are all around. May 10, 2016