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Routes in Captain Carbuncle

Perhaps You Should See A Specialist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Stu Ritchie, Steve Crusher Bartlett, May 2000
Page Views: 267 total, 6/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 16, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

1. Climb up the left of two right-facing dihedrals up to below the Shark's Head, an obvious right-pointing flake 30 feet up. Layback around this (5.10d) and head up and slightly left then up and slightly right (past a loose block) to gain a small stance on a large dinner plate and under a 3 foot roof.
2. Struggle over the roof (5.10c/d) then continue more easily up through a 5.8 slot. Angle up and slightly left towards the top, over a couple more 5.10a bulges, to gain a ledge under a right-facing 'V' slot in the final rock band. Hand traverse 15 feet right, then squeeze through the Warm Compress (5.9++) to the summit.
NOTE: on FA, pitch 1 was led (and cleaned of much dirt) with a point of clean aid, freed by second.

Location

This tower is the third from the left of the four fins behind the Pixie Stick, immediately west of Captain Bird's Eye.
Perhaps You Should See A Specialist begins on the north face, thirty feet from the west arete, and heads pretty much directly up the obvious weakness.
Descent: A simul-rap with two 60-meter 9mm ropes from the obvious summit saddle, just behind the west arete.

Protection

Wires, two or three sets of cams from 1/2 inch to 6 inch. Two 60 meter ropes. No anchors on top. No fixed anchors at all.

Photos

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