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Dottyback Deamo Daydream
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
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Routes in Captain Collywobble
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Dottyback Deamo Daydream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA: Steve Bartlett, Ralph E. Burns, Nov 1st, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 321 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
1. Up and right to a shallow slot 15 feet up (5.10). Continue straight up, then slightly left through a finger crack in a small roof. Face climb left of the blocky crack above to a ledge below the higher mud band. Traverse 15 feet right, then up through another bulging finger crack. Belay on a cramped ledge (5.10b, 60 feet).
2. Up the short chimney above, past stacked blocks, to a slabby ledge (you'll be below another chimney). Traverse thirty feet left on the wild hanging slab to gain the base of the nice crack. Up ten feet and belay on a ledge (5.9, 60 feet).
3. Romp up the crack. Belay on a ledge on the right (5.9, 30 feet).
4. Angle up and left, straight up over a small bulge, then left again to gain the east arete and the summit (5.8, 40 feet).
2. Up the short chimney above, past stacked blocks, to a slabby ledge (you'll be below another chimney). Traverse thirty feet left on the wild hanging slab to gain the base of the nice crack. Up ten feet and belay on a ledge (5.9, 60 feet).
3. Romp up the crack. Belay on a ledge on the right (5.9, 30 feet).
4. Angle up and left, straight up over a small bulge, then left again to gain the east arete and the summit (5.8, 40 feet).
Location
Start on the north side, ten feet right of the high spot in the talus. After a steep muddy start the route accesses the prominent clean crack in the upper middle of the face.
Descent: There is no fixed gear on the climb. To descend, use two ropes tied together and draped over the top, one hanging down each face. We used a 70m on the longer south face and a 60m, and these reached OK. Take care setting this up. It may be better to go one person at a time rather than both at once, to help communication. Once the party is down, the ropes can be pulled.
Descent: There is no fixed gear on the climb. To descend, use two ropes tied together and draped over the top, one hanging down each face. We used a 70m on the longer south face and a 60m, and these reached OK. Take care setting this up. It may be better to go one person at a time rather than both at once, to help communication. Once the party is down, the ropes can be pulled.
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