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Routes in Falcon Slab/Zydeco Wall

King Ex T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zydeco Fool T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 105 ft
FA: Kelsey Gray, Shasta Miller
Page Views: 197 total · 4/month
Shared By: coldclimb on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This route follows directly up the recently cleaned large crack system up the right side of the slab. Pro can be tricky for the first section of the route, but small gear gets you through to better pro higher. Follow the crack almost to its top, and then step left on a small seam to join Zydeco Fool for the well-protected crux move at a bolt just before the anchor. Most of this route is closer to 5.8, but the crux move bumps the rating up. Shares an anchor with Zydeco Fool.

Location

Follows the obvious large crack system on the right side of the slab.

Protection

Small to medium gear.
Two bolt anchor with rings.

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