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Routes in Alias Wall

Another One For the Books T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arêtenophobia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carolina In My Mind S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Corn Beef Hash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Dog Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Noise T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yet another 5.7 corner (aka Erica's Sister, Right?) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver 5/20/14
Page Views: 794 total · 16/month
Shared By: Conor Mark on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Begin 10ft right of Corndog Crack at the line of bolts up the arête. Climb the toe of the arête up to the left rising ramp. Surmount the ledge and utilize a no hands rest before pulling the small roof sequence to gain the slab above.

Location

The arete 10ft right of Corndog Crack

Protection

6 bolts and an optional #2 cam in the runout 5.4 section at the top.

Photos

A good pitch! Bring a trail saw and clean up some of the branches that are in the way. A bit run out at the top. Easy, but I can't imagine the fall you would take if some of those holds broke off up near the anchors!!! Jul 30, 2014
A very nice pitch! The easy runout at the top could be protected with a yellow Mastercam or a yellow Camalot if desired. The climbing is maybe 5.5 in this section so I wouldn't be overly concerned if you don't have a rack with you.

While the route itself is thoughtfully bolted, the anchor had only two quick- links (as of 8.10) and their orientation made the pull on rappel a real rope twister. We left two carabiners there to reorient the rope and eliminate this problem. They are not booty!

Thanks to the FA team for a nice addition to the area. Aug 11, 2014
Jeff Stuart
vermont
 
Jeff Stuart   vermont
 
Fun line! Actual 10c sport that's not a sand bag @ upper. Aug 30, 2014
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.10c
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.10c
Hey Derek,

I appreciate the biners left at the top. We meant to get back there and add chains or something since the rope drag/twist is pretty bad but we didn't have the equipment at the time. I'm sure they definitely help! Sep 16, 2014

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