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Routes in Alias Wall

Another One For the Books T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ArĂȘtenophobia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carolina In My Mind S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Corn Beef Hash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corn Dog Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Noise T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yet another 5.7 corner (aka Erica's Sister, Right?) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Conor Mark, Kristofer Fiore 5/20/14
Page Views: 130 total, 3/month
Shared By: Conor Mark on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Reminiscent of southern slabs. Gain an undercling to a stance at the first bolt. Move left of the bolt then back right to gain the second bolt with difficulty (clip from hidden jug). Easy climbing leads to a thin pull over the crux bulge. Easy slab (unprotected, optional cam) to the anchor.

Location

Start on the ledge 10ft right of Aretenophobia

Protection

4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Huh. Either we all missed something or you guys are climbing waaaay harder than you think! I'll go back and have another look for sure. Sep 21, 2014
Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
I climbed it again the other day, still goes as I remember it. The broken side pull didn't seem to affect the difficulty, it's smaller now but more in cut. Still don't know what to grade it, but I'm glad folks have been on it. Sep 19, 2014
No worries! Maybe Trav, Seth, Derrek and I just missed something. Stranger things have happened! Sep 18, 2014
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
  5.11a
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
  5.11a
I wonder if something got ripped off at the crux although the scar is from an early attempt before the FA so I don't know that a hold was there when we sent it. We suggested 10d/11a as a rating and it seemed pretty fair at the time but it's possible something broke off since then. I plan on being in the area again soon so maybe I'll try it again and see how it goes. Sorry for the sandbag, honest mistake I swear! haha. Sep 17, 2014
We had a similar experience. The moves up to the crux bulge were pleasant face climbing, but neither my partner or I could pull the bulge, which is to put it mildly, rather unusual at the reported grade. We also scoped it on rappel, and there didn't appear to be anything we were missing. There is an obvious rock scar below and left of the bolt on the bulge which had us wondering if something has broken. If not, I predict the consensus grade may creep upwards a bit... Aug 11, 2014
We tried this route this afternoon. It has some cool moves, but we were completely stymied by the upper crux. After breaking the only large hold on the bulge off (the side pull), there's virtually nothing to grab up above. Maybe we were missing something, but seems very hard for the grade.... Jul 29, 2014