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A Break In Security

5.7 PG13, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 34 votes
FA: Brian Chandler / Larry Van Sant
California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Woodfords Canyon > Deadwood Crags > Bandit Buttress

Description

Route description needs to be updated. This NOT a sport route. The first 3-4 bolts have been chopped. Do not lead without trad gear. There are now 3 bolts on this climb, starting at ~40 feet at top of flake.  

This is an enjoyable climb involving mostly crack on decent rock. Although this is usually climbed as a sport climb the FA was trad and can still be climbed as such. Bolts were placed to vastly improve rope management and to allow face climbing options right of the crack. A new anchor was installed on 7/3/20 with mussy hooks about 95' up. This a great climb for learning to place trad with bolts for back-up if needed.

Location

This is the route on the left of the south face. Rap off chains on the top summit block using a shorter rope down the backside or down the face off the mussy hooks with a 70m- Be sure to tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Protection

Gear to 3". 3 bolts. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the top
[Hide Photo] From the top
A Break in security
[Hide Photo] A Break in security
Topping out at shared "Prowler" anchors
[Hide Photo] Topping out at shared "Prowler" anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stephen Gomez
Pioneer, Ca
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] The bolts next to the crack detract from the quality of this route. That being said the climbing is fun.

The 5.7 leader planning to lead this as a sport route may want to place some gear between bolts as they are 10-15 feet apart in places and a fall would be nasty on the low angled, featured rock. Apr 7, 2016
Eric Klose
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route although I went to the anchors of The Prowler to appease my climbing partners. I feel this may have taken away from the climb? Apr 14, 2018
Brian Chandler
South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Hi all. I just installed a separate anchor (Mussy Hooks) for "A Break in Security" today 7/3/20. No need to go to the very top (chains), or traverse over to "Prowler". Enjoy! The trail has been improved as well! Jul 3, 2020
GizzardJones
Pollock Pines, CA
 
[Hide Comment] 1st half is gear now. looks like the 1st few bolts have been chopped.. they are not needed at all. gear everywhere. small rack to #3 will get you going. then 3 bolts to the top. super fun mixed route. May 1, 2023