Route description needs to be updated. This NOT a sport route. The first 3-4 bolts have been chopped. Do not lead without trad gear. There are now 3 bolts on this climb, starting at ~40 feet at top of flake.
This is an enjoyable climb involving mostly crack on decent rock. Although this is usually climbed as a sport climb the FA was trad and can still be climbed as such. Bolts were placed to vastly improve rope management and to allow face climbing options right of the crack. A new anchor was installed on 7/3/20 with mussy hooks about 95' up. This a great climb for learning to place trad with bolts for back-up if needed.
This is the route on the left of the south face. Rap off chains on the top summit block using a shorter rope down the backside or down the face off the mussy hooks with a 70m- Be sure to tie knots in the ends of the rope.
Gear to 3". 3 bolts.
Pioneer, Ca
The 5.7 leader planning to lead this as a sport route may want to place some gear between bolts as they are 10-15 feet apart in places and a fall would be nasty on the low angled, featured rock. Apr 7, 2016
Reno, NV
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Pollock Pines, CA