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Routes in Bandit Buttress

A Break In Security S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cat Burglar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cervesas in Zapata Land S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Five Finger Discount T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prowler, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Smooth Criminal T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Brian Chandler / Larry Van Sant
Page Views: 503 total, 12/month
Shared By: brian chandler on Jul 13, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an enjoyable climb involving mostly crack on decent rock. Although this is usually climbed as a sports climb the FA was trad and can still be climbed as such. Bolts were placed to vastly improve rope management and to allow face climbing options right of the crack. Most people traverse right after 75' and head to the shared anchor on "The Prowler" rather than finish out on top to the chain anchors. This a great climb for beginners learning to lead.

Location

This is the route on the left of the south face. Rap off top with a shorter rope down the backside or down the face with a 70m- Be sure to tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Protection

Bring a dozen quick draws and/ or gear to 3".

Photos

Steve Gomez
  5.7 PG13
Steve Gomez  
  5.7 PG13
The bolts next to the crack detract from the quality of this route. That being said the climbing is fun.

The 5.7 leader planning to lead this as a sport route may want to place some gear between bolts as they are 10-15 feet apart in places and a fall would be nasty on the low angled, featured rock. Apr 7, 2016