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Baden Powell Wall

5.8+ R, Trad, 1312 ft (398 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: 1960
International > S America > Brazil > Rio de Janeiro > Irmão Maior

Description

I don't know where the name comes from but Baden Powell de Aquino (August 6, 1937 – September 26, 2000) usually known simply as Baden Powell, was one of the most prominent and celebrated Brazilian guitarists of his time.
What is good is hiking through a place where drug dealers used to seek refuge. My guide said he was stopped once but the gang figured out they were dirtbag climbers with nothing to offer.
Brazilian granite is super sticky, very nice. Watching black vultures constantly circle waiting for your body to fall to the ground is sobering and exciting.

Location

The decent is a real treat as you get to walk through a favela which is like something out of CITY OF GOD. As you climb you might be recall the catch copy from the film: "If you run, the buck catches; if you stay, the buck eats", (a proverb analogous to the English "Damned if you do, damned if you don't").

Protection

Lots of Brazilian bolts which means about 20 to 40 feet in between. Actually, climbing in Brazil gave me a new perspective on sport climbing and the over bolting done around the world.
There is a killer traverse where you have to jump over a pit. Granted the anchor is on the other side but the fall would not be fun.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Local power in mainly hijacked!
[Hide Photo] Local power in mainly hijacked!
And finally you see the ocean again.
[Hide Photo] And finally you see the ocean again.
The ocean again.
[Hide Photo] The ocean again.
More walking down.
[Hide Photo] More walking down.
Local soccer in favella.
[Hide Photo] Local soccer in favella.
Walking down.
[Hide Photo] Walking down.
Favella in the distance.
[Hide Photo] Favella in the distance.
The only shade on the route. You can see Corcovado in the distance.
[Hide Photo] The only shade on the route. You can see Corcovado in the distance.
Brazilian bolts - new and old.
[Hide Photo] Brazilian bolts - new and old.
The start of the traverse.
[Hide Photo] The start of the traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I've been told that the Patrick White route is another amazing classic. Not sure which of the "Two Brothers" it's on. Dec 11, 2015
Flavio Daflon
Rio de Janeiro
[Hide Comment] Baden Powel went through an update and maintenance process. The old bolts were replaced by Bonier Pingo and stainless steel parabolts. The bolts near cracks that can be protected by trad gear were removed – so bring two more pieces than the recommended in the book. You should bring Camalots .5 to 3 or similar. The trad sections now are: the chimney and the V section on the first pitch; part of the crack on pitch 4 and the pillar on pitch 5, as well as the others mentioned in the topo. The first ascensionists, as well as the club responsible for the route (Cerj), authorized all the work. Nov 2, 2017