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Routes in The Fin Area

April Fools S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Batteries Not Included T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Girls Don't Cry S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bone Crusher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bumble Bee S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Decepticon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fortune Cookie S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grave Digger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hunting Werewolves S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imaginary Diseases S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megatron S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Optimus Prime S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pepper Shaker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pornstar Punishment S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rear Naked Choke S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ride'n Dirty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rubber Cookie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Talk Dirty To Me S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Triangle Choke S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
True Blood S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire Diaries S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome to Cooks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Orthel Brothers
Page Views: 801 total · 15/month
Shared By: Noah.J on Jul 11, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Pull around a fun, soft for 10a roof, and haul to a bolted anchor. Maybe a bit of loose rock, not bad.

Protection

8? bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

Cool route with a variety of movement. The bolts look fresh and the hangers are painted to match the rock. Getting under the roof was crunchy for a tall person and the roof pull itself felt pretty hard, I'm guessing I missed some holds. There are holds going right after the roof following more bolts to an intermediate anchor, or you can trend left and follow the bolted corner with a few fingerlocks to gain the same anchor. Going for the top of the cliff seemed rad but the thin moves and friable rock forced the use of a bail biner one bolt from the anchor. Does anyone have any info about the upper half of this climb? It's definitely an awesome pitch when taken to the top. There also seems to be another route immediately left that avoids the roof and then follows the aforementioned corner. Nov 24, 2017
The headwall that goes to the top where you left the bail biner is not part of Fortune Cookie but a very bouldery 11a extension. Nov 27, 2017
Thanks guys for the beta and stewardship, it is appreciated! Nov 28, 2017
I worked with Neil replacing this hardware. The primary reason for not replacing the anchor is the poor rock quality in the area of the anchor. The rear naked anchor will serve this route well. Nov 29, 2017
S Tart  
Jordan, based on your description, you climbed Rear Naked Choke and not Fortune Cookie, which accounts for some of the conundrum. Rear Naked is the rightmost line with painted hangers which pulls over the big strenuous and 'crunchy' roof, then trends right and up to anchors. Fortune Cookie avoids the roof altogether by climbing around the left side and proceeding up the obvious weakness/ corner system. The description and pic on this page are a little misleading if you don't know the area. A few pics of both routes are now up to help newcomers. Nov 29, 2017

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