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Routes in Twin Peaks

South-Southwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 339 total · 7/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Expect only the finest rock, and as mentioned, the climbing is “trying to climb a vertical mud pile.”

Pitch 1: start on the SSW side of the summit tower and look for a well-featured climb up volcanic tuff. Climb 90 feet into an alcove, 5.3.

Pitch 2: continue straight up from the alcove in a chossy crack system; then veer right to a series of mantels. The upper mantel is the crux and is protected by a fixed pin (more of a mental placement). Continue up the ridge on hollow spires to more solid rock, 5.6 PG-13.

Pitch 3: from the top of the 5.6 pitch, start down a class 3 ramp to a notch. Climb out of the notch, class 4, to the middle summit. The eastern summit is reached by crossing an exposed gap and then a short scramble to the summit, 180 feet, 5.0.

For the descent, use a slung boulder and solution pocket to rappel 80 feet off of the north side of the tower from the top of the second pitch.

Protection

- Single 60m rope.
- BD cams #0.75 - 6.
- 4-6 double length runners.

To sew it up, one could bring double #5. I used nothing smaller than a BD #2.
4-6 double length runners are also recommended for passive protection via horns and pillars.

Photos

Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Way to go, you guys; this route looks great! Jul 11, 2014

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