PRINT: Rock Climb Ddong Chim!, South Platte

Ddong Chim!

5.11b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 226 votes
FA: Lisa Stern and Dave Montgomery, 7/2014
Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Ddong Chim is an unrelenting pumper to the top. Start in pockets to the left of The Opportunist, and follow 8 bolts through steep terrain.

Prepare for your send of this route by playing the following: Ddong Chim game.

Location

This is in the middle of The Tan Corridor, just left of The Opportunist.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Impalement Risk

Per Tracy Hamm: watch out for the tree. I fell off this route and impaled my left glute on the broken, upturned, tree branch next to the route.

*This branch has been removed, and the route has safe falls now.*

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ddong Chim at Staunton's Tan Corridor, one of the better routes at the area.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Burnell
Denver, CO

FYI, 3rd bolt may have been set incorrectly. Will likely loosen regularly, it was spinning, and we gave it a quick crank to reset the bolt, but it looks like it needs to be re-drilled. This bolt is your protection for the crux move. Great route! Sustained. Where do I send some donations for the Mussy hooks? Jul 15, 2015

Monty
Golden, CO

5.11b

Third bolt appeared fine last night. We torqued it, and the rest of the route with a torque wrench to ensure they don't loosen up again. Oct 1, 2015

aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO

5.11b

I thought this was just as good as the Opportunist, but there was a noticeable crux for me, which made it slightly harder than the Opportunist. After the crux, it was just trying to hold on as you fight the pump all the way to the anchors. Jul 23, 2016

Jason Platt
Colorado Springs, CO

This route is stellar! Climbed this the same day as The Opportunist, and in every way I thought this climb was more interesting and technical. No individual move is too hard, and it just keeps going. What a joy to climb! Pumpy and continuous. Aug 7, 2018

Tracy Hamm
Denver, CO

Butt stitches! Watch out for the tree. I fell off this route and impaled my left glute on the broken, upturned, tree branch next to the route a couple weeks ago. I had to get stitches, and it was not pretty. I'm emailing the state park about it. Maybe we could saw that sucker off?!?!?! I loved the amount of this route I got to climb before I fell and had to leave for urgent care. Oct 2, 2019

Tracy Hamm
Denver, CO

Butt impaler branch gone! This past Labor Day we tackled this route again, and my friend Mike straight-up kicked, smashed, and annihilated the branch that pierced my glute and resulted in many stitches. All of your booties have been saved. Enjoy. Sep 10, 2020

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

Stemming and drop knees offer some respite from the pump in spots to keep it reasonable. Also, can be made a power route instead enduro by skipping small holds with bigger moves.

Fun route, indeed. Hard clips for people < 5'5", I think. Sep 6, 2021

Kobie

In case you were wondering where the name came from: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanchō en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanch…. Sep 7, 2022

Chris Ham

Alright, so while the impaler branch might be gone, that tree will still catch you. Found out the hard way after taking a whip right after the leftward traverse during a warm-up. Just be careful. I'm unsure if a hard catch would be better, but that tree is still a hazard. Sep 8, 2022

Random Climber
Front Range

5.11a/b

Don’t let the grade of this stop you - it’s no harder than the two routes the right, and I’d argue it’s easily the best of the three in terms of quality of movement. Oct 1, 2023