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Birdbrain

5.12a X, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 15 votes
FA: TR: Steve Wunsch, 1974 Lead: The Russes Clune and Raffa, 1983
New York > Gunks > Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…

Description

Climb steep face up and right to a crux near the orange streak of slammin the salmon. Move up a few moves, then work right to a pebbly triangular overhang. Pass the hang and make another hard move then diagonal up and left to the Birdland chains.

Location

The first obvious route downhill and right from Birdland.

Protection

Small RPs and cams up to finger size.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Just before the crux
[Hide Photo] Just before the crux
Thumbdercling
[Hide Photo] Thumbdercling
Bird brain
[Hide Photo] Bird brain

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Santisi

  5.12a R
[Hide Comment] I previewed the gear on TR first. Still heads up in some sections but I thought it protected adequately. Fairly key was a sideways #4 brass offset that slots in left to right and is bomb proof just before the thumbdercling crux. After placing this you can easily downclimb back to the no hands stance. Apr 12, 2023