5.12d,
Sport, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA: Adam Harrington
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Cotton Hill
> Cotton Top
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Keep heading "climber's left" past the uber-classic psycho wrangler to find the short bolted seam, Tainted Love. Unfortunately for crack climbers you won't find a single finger lock on this route, instead you'll be crimping, hanging onto to finger buckets, and making reaches for all you're worth. At the 4th bolt you'll enter the crux. Figure out a way to utilize the crappy left hand sidepull, pull up to an ear, grab a crimp, stand really tall with piss poor feet and grab another crimp, and then stab out right to a jug rail. Clip the route's last bolt and hope you don't botch the powerful ending. I hear this route is nearly impossible if you are under 5'6" but I personally wouldn't let that hold me back. Where there's a will, there's a way. With that said, there is no way I could do this thing if I was a few inches shorter.