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Routes in Buttermilk Boulder

"Railways" V-easy 3
"Walkman" V0- 4-
Buttermilk Face Left V1 5
Buttermilk Face Middle V3 6A
Buttermilk Face Right V5 6C PG13
Cracker Boy V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 693 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jeremy Schoenborn on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Euan Cameron, Colin Parker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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If you don't want to cause access issues please make it a point to be on your best behavior. Details

Description

long lockoffs between good crimps and flakes to straight forward topout

Location

first face climb left of cracker boy

Protection

pads

Photos

Sam Deshler
Orange County, CA
Sam Deshler   Orange County, CA
A tree has fallen on the top jug. The problem can still be finished to the right, just watch you head on the tree! Oct 18, 2017
Verg
Fullerton, CA
  V5
Verg   Fullerton, CA
  V5
From what I understand there is a downed tree that has fallen from the other side of this boulder. It is making topping out this problem impossible or very difficult. I only saw a photo. Anyone been up to Cracker Boy lately? Jun 13, 2017
AJ
 
AJ  
 
I've done this problem a few times but it never occurred to me to start on waist high holds as specified in the new guidebook. The beta in the older guide (where the v5 rating came from, ironically) was simply "the problem in the middle of the face." It’s interesting to see how different folks interpret the same piece of rock. Jan 3, 2017
Verg
Fullerton, CA
  V5
Verg   Fullerton, CA
  V5
Its the traversing first move that seems the hardest for short people. I have seen some videos of people neglecting the first move, but that is what makes this problem a V5 in my opinion. Dec 7, 2016
Sean Denny
Irvine
  V4 PG13
Sean Denny   Irvine
  V4 PG13
Felt pretty mellow for a V5, but I'm rather tall and there were some long reaches. I'd guesstimate that for folks with less than a 5'10" reach this would be a bit harder. Nov 28, 2016