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Routes in Fashion Slab

Blue Steel S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Catwalk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferrari S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Jockey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finnish Dwarf S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gasoline Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Tigre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Merman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mugatu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange-Mocha Frappuccino T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 215 ft
FA: Todd Townsend, Amy Wicks 7/2014
Page Views: 625 total, 15/month
Shared By: Todd Townsend on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Follow the left slanting finger and hand crack (5.9) to where it ends at a small ledge on the arete.

Next, slab climb up the arete past 4 bolts. There is optional small gear between bolts 2 and 3 and a friction crux (5.10b) at the third bolt.

You can stop at the ring anchor here and a single 70 should just barely make it back down. (Tie a knot in the end.) If continuing, do not clip the anchor for pro. It will give you impossible rope drag and set up the leader to have the rope behind his/her leg.

Climb the left facing corner to the left of the anchor past 2 bolts with some funky technical stemming and smearing (crux 5.10d) to a good ledge. (If you wanted to break the climb up into 2 pitches for some reason, this would be the place to do it.)

Easy crack climbing brings you to a last mini roof crux (5.10a). Proceed past 2 final bolts to the upper anchor and belay ledge.

It's best to climb this route as one mega 65 meter pitch, but be careful of gear management and rope drag. If you do break it up into two pitches, do not belay at the first ring bolt anchor, as it will set your leader up for a nasty fall.

Location

This is currently the leftmost route at the Fashion Slab. To get to the base of the climb, do some class 4 moves up a short chimney to access the starting ledge. This route shares the same start as "Lefty," but immediately heads up the obvious left slanting finger crack instead of following the bolts. 2 raps with a single 70m rope puts you back on the starting ledge.

Protection

8 Bolts. Gear to 2", doubles in small cams useful.

Bolted ring anchor at the top.

Photos

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