Type: Trad
FA: R. Halka, J. Cotter - 1983
Page Views: 182 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jfaub on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Respect designated paths ! Details
Access Issue: NCC Gatineau Park restrictions Details


This climb is awesome. A bit short, but definitely worth trying. It is graded a bit old-school (as with most climbs in gatineau park, beware of the ''+'')

Start on broken ground and gain the base of the pink dihedral. Jam and stem up this until the corner crack dissipates into nothingness and you have to use face holds, maybe the arete out left if you so desire. Put in your last piece of gear before the crack disappears (0.5 WC helium size) climb up over it and commit to the reachy / dynamic crux (depends on how tall you are). Really bad holds await, but don't let go, and clip a bolt. You think it's over now, don't you? Oh no. You still have to clip the chains. Be creative with what you have (not much), and feel around for hidden holds (key) and finally clip the chains.


The left-most route on the reaper buttress. Obvious pink granite dihedral.


Standard rack. Ditch the big stuff. Basically hand size for the bottom and figer size for the upper part. 1 bolt (spins...) Bolted anchor.