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Routes in Reaper Buttress

Jugness T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Krispy Kreme S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Toady's Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reaper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: R. Halka, J. Cotter - 1983
Page Views: 122 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jfaub on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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Respect designated paths ! Details
NCC Gatineau Park restrictions Details

Description

This climb is awesome. A bit short, but definitely worth trying. It is graded a bit old-school (as with most climbs in gatineau park, beware of the ''+'')

Start on broken ground and gain the base of the pink dihedral. Jam and stem up this until the corner crack dissipates into nothingness and you have to use face holds, maybe the arete out left if you so desire. Put in your last piece of gear before the crack disappears (0.5 WC helium size) climb up over it and commit to the reachy / dynamic crux (depends on how tall you are). Really bad holds await, but don't let go, and clip a bolt. You think it's over now, don't you? Oh no. You still have to clip the chains. Be creative with what you have (not much), and feel around for hidden holds (key) and finally clip the chains.

Location

The left-most route on the reaper buttress. Obvious pink granite dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack. Ditch the big stuff. Basically hand size for the bottom and figer size for the upper part. 1 bolt (spins...) Bolted anchor.

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