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Fuel Rod

5.10d PG13, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Block
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Description

Game on, rated 10b in an older guide and now rated 10d in the new guides, the bouldery crux of this route still felt hard for the rating. Clipping the second bolt will keep your attention but not as much as clipping the poorly placed 3rd bolt. The climbing remains sustained to the anchor and calling it 10 easy is misleading. A hand size optional piece in the older guide and small optional pro suggested in the Supertopo guide is only recommended if you like carrying extra weight. You could place a hand size piece before the anchor that might hold body weight but would send rock down on your belayer as it ripped out in the event of a fall. You might also get a smaller piece to the left that could hold a fall but you would be blocking what I felt was a crucial undercling hold. While fairly well bolted by TM standards this sport route constantly felt sporty.

Location

This route starts on a ledge several 100 ft rt of the Bunny Slopes. A short awkward bit of climbing(5th class 3rd class) is required to get on the ledge

Protection

5 bolts and 2 closed shuts for an anchor. Also you can get good gear off the ground for a belay anchor to prevent going off the ledge in case the leader falls before clipping the first bolt(recommended).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

someone is in for a workout ;-)
[Hide Photo] someone is in for a workout ;-)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] 3 out of 5 stars

Beware of bats in the hand size crack above the last bolt.

Trendy Bendy down and left is a fun well protected warm up Jul 6, 2014
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] - i thought the actual crux at the bottom was not all that hard - high 10 range sounds about right. that said, it was surprising how sustained (ie not a whole lot easier) most of the other moves felt.
- once you clip the first bolt, the route is really well protected by tuolumne standards, i'm not sure why we would call it pg-13. #3 and #4 felt a bit out of place. not too bad, but not all that easy to clip.
- as jeff said, a big cam in the right undercling will blow out, but a smaller offset in the corner might hold. i'm pretty sure the offset alien (tight yellow/red) i placed in the left corner of the left undercling would have held (and it did not get in the way of using the undercling as a hold). Sep 11, 2021