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Routes in The Block

Fuel Rod S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
High Heels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 116 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Game on, rated 10b in an older guide and now rated 10d in the new guides, the bouldery crux of this route still felt hard for the rating. Clipping the second bolt will keep your attention but not as much as clipping the poorly placed 3rd bolt. The climbing remains sustained to the anchor and calling it 10 easy is misleading. A hand size optional piece in the older guide and small optional pro suggested in the Supertopo guide is only recommended if you like carrying extra weight. You could place a hand size piece before the anchor that might hold body weight but would send rock down on your belayer as it ripped out in the event of a fall. You might also get a smaller piece to the left that could hold a fall but you would be blocking what I felt was a crucial undercling hold. While fairly well bolted by TM standards this sport route constantly felt sporty.

Location

This route starts on a ledge several 100 ft rt of the Bunny Slopes. A short awkward bit of climbing(5th class 3rd class) is required to get on the ledge

Protection

5 bolts and 2 closed shuts for an anchor. Also you can get good gear off the ground for a belay anchor to prevent going off the ledge in case the leader falls before clipping the first bolt(recommended).

Photos

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Great hang up there and a fun climb or three to boot.
One can also climb up and right from the second bolt, to the right arching undercling. Its a bit spicy, but positive. "Tiggles Testimony" Jul 7, 2014
3 out of 5 stars

Beware of bats in the hand size crack above the last bolt.

Trendy Bendy down and left is a fun well protected warm up Jul 6, 2014