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5.12a R, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Clint Walker
Texas > Austin Area > Reimer's Ranch… > Buzzards Roof


Technical beta mixed with a hint of height dependency (please prove me wrong on this) make for a fun romp up this short wall. Route goes up the center of the wall pulling the roof on protruding rock along the lip. Wingspan starts with a scramble up to the base of the triangle-shaped boulder. Play with the roof a bit and try not to think about the boulder underneath you. Burly moves get you past the lip and a thin finish on the mini-wave earns the anchors. Don't z-clip the 2nd bolt.

Belayer should stand down and to the right just under bolt 1 to minimize rope issues at the start.

R rating due to possible bad landing on boulder. Have a good belayer and a cool head @ bolt 4 and you'll be fine. Do not toprope this route. A bad fall onto the pointed boulder below can (did) happen.

During development while working the roof section my right hand popped out of the slot causing me to take a grounder onto the slanted boulder below. I struck at just the right angle as to not incur any injuries but I wouldn't say by any means that the feat is repeatable. DON'T TOP ROPE THIS ROUTE.


Center of Buzzard's roof. Look for the slanted triangle-shaped boulder. Route goes up and over the lip of the roof on a large block.


4 bolts. Sport anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Working the roof.
[Hide Photo] Working the roof.
Setting the anchors on Wingspan.
[Hide Photo] Setting the anchors on Wingspan.
Route topo
[Hide Photo] Route topo