Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Prisionero Sangriente
|Psicologica T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Techo Arrecho T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||43 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Eric Werfel on Jul 5, 2014|
DescriptionAscends the right-most of the two obvious chimneys. A really fun route, despite some chaucy rock.
pitch 1: 5.6 - ascend the chimney, traverse left across ledge to corner at base of main chimney.
pitch 2: 5.6 - ascend the chimney, stepping out and right around a large chock. angle up and right, crossing a broken 'arete', then traversing under a roof, to ledge. belay here, or make 2 moves on a finger crack and scramble to the top.
optional pitch 3: 5.7 - up and left from where you top out, you will see a corner system with an obvious roof. fun and airy.
descent: there is a two-bolt, one ring, anchor at the top of pitch 1, slightly below the middle of the ledge, for the sport route below. there are rap anchors at the top of pitch 2, but they looked questionable. we chose to walk off.
Locationon the Prisionero Sangriente wall, just past the Clavícula wall. the wall is notable for two obvious right-leaning chimneys. this is the right-most chimney.
Protectionstandard rack to 3", plenty of stoppers. tricams proved very useful.
route is generally well-protected, despite some chaucy rock. the notable exception being the crux move on pitch 2, which is protected by a nut behind a questionable block, with potential to deck on the belay ledge. this one move earns the route a PG rating, otherwise it would be G.
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