Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Galen Rowell, David Lomba|
|Page Views:||1,655 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||The Real Battitude on Jul 5, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
p1. Climb thin flakes and corners on easy slab with sparse gear. >5.6 Go right at a roof and around a bushy chimney on huge easy knobs. Belay at the base of a hand crack. 60+m
p.2 Climb a great hand crack through a sea of knobs. After intersecting a dike band traverse right on knobs to a slabby crux move (5.7R) before a huge ledge with bushes. 60m
This pitch is about as hard/serious as the South Face's p8 but shorter lived.
p3. Avoid the grungy choss and bush filled chimney by climbing on the right up 5.7 flakes to a nice pillar with a hand crack. keep going past a huge horn and belay higher at a nice ledge. 60m
I thought this pitch was the only on route that is unpleasant by most standards. It has a fair amount of loose but mostly avoidable blocks, though I would say it climbs better than it looks
p4. Continue the corner on fun climbing with much better rock. When you top out a big ledge/tower, traverse to the left into a right facing corner and then belay on an airy ledge. 60m
p5. Climb up and left to an incredible and exposed 5.7R Lay-back Arete with great face holds. After 20ft or so a small dihedral opens and provides a few pieces. continue up and over the tower and traverse the around the next small tower on the left (north) side and make a belay. 50m
p6. Continue the ridge and move right (south) around the next tower on big bushy ledges.-class4. Either move the belay to here or have your second simul-climb (easy).
p6-cont. Airy chimney moves between towers brings you to a notch below the next buttress. Climb the splitter and belay at a horn that is about 70m from pitch 5
p7. From here about 100 meters of fun easy ramps with numerous splitters lead to the top. You can walk around and up the summit block, but the fun set of exposed 5.8 mantels on the west side is much more memorable!