Avg: 3.8 from 9 votes
Routes in LP
|LP (details) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Nawall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Antoine Fabre y Sergio Gaviria|
|Page Views:||457 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Eric Werfel on Jul 5, 2014|
one of the longest routes in Suesca. aesthetic climbing, two big roofs, dihedral handcracks, and enjoyable face climbing make this is a must-climb. very solid for the grade, heady, and with HUGE exposure, but the protection is good. 3rd pitch roof is very reminiscent of High Exposure at the Gunks.
pitch 1: 5.7, 100' - follow corner/crack past blocky bulges, step right around corner, follow another crack and/or face to the obvious ledge. belay here, or traverse 5m right and belay under the 2nd pitch roof (recommended)
pitch 2: 5.7+, 100' - climb a few meters of chaucy rock (easy, but very exposed and heady) to roof, pull the roof (crux 1), take a deep breath, and enjoy a gorgeous dihedral handcrack (you've earned it) to the next ledge.
pitch 3: 5.7+, 100' - straight ahead you will see a crack in a left-facing corner; though tempting, this is NOT the route. look 5m right, to a large block sticking out under a huge roof (see photo). belly-crawl to the edge of this block and stand up, pull the roof (crux 2), and enjoy easy crack and face to a ledge. belay here, or continue (recommended) ~10m to another ledge with a tree.
pitches 4/5: 5.7, ~200' - follow the obvious handcrack to its conclusion (~100ft), angle up and right on face, and follow chicken-heads to summit. protection on the last 100' is limited to thread-throughs, chicken-heads, and some creative hex placements, but the climbing is easy (~5.4). linking these, there was a LOT of drag. linking with a 60m rope may require using the higher belay at the tree. an intermediate (but semi-hanging) belay could be made at the end of the crack.
Protectionstandard rack to 3", plenty of stoppers. hexes were crucial, especially for the 1st belay.
i do not agree with the PG rating indicated by the other page for this route. there is plenty of pro, though it requires good knowledge of stopper placements.
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