Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Kelly Cordner, Margy Marshall, Derick Olson, Dave Pedersen
Page Views: 257 total · 4/month
Shared By: kelly cordner on Jul 5, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! High water release May 13, 2019!!! Details

Description

Flakes to crack to two roofs. Extend bolt with full sling below 2nd roof or back clean to reduce drag. Cruxes at bolts 10 and 12. Unusual technique gets you past 1st roof crux. Beach that whale!

Location

right of 12c and Barbella's new 10a. Look for 2 obvious large roofs. belay is on trail near stream.

Protection

13 bolts. You probably need a 70m rope for this route.

Photos

Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.10c/d
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.10c/d
Your description identifies the routes as 10a (Barbella's new route), then 10c (Beach that Whale), to the right of the 12c (I am guessing Redemption). I can sort of guess which is which, but the routes look very intimidating up high. It would be nice to see a posted photo that shows the start of each route - as a confidence booster that one is getting on the right routes. Thanks! May 18, 2017
Lurker
Truckee, CA
  5.10c
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
  5.10c
You can avoid the "beached whale" move, which did not look very enjoyable. Go right hand to the slot like a sidepull, then go left hand around the arete, there's a couple of good dishes to yard on. High foot and you're good. Apr 23, 2018