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Routes in Mañana Gris

El chaman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Fantasia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Chuspa T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mañana Gris T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Uno a Uno T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alberto Castro y Gonzalo Ospina
Page Views: 155 total · 3/month
Shared By: Eric Werfel on Jul 4, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

another fun, moderate route with good variety typical of Suesca. PG rated because of some chaucy rock. but protection is plentiful, if not always bomber. pitches can definitely be linked. could probably be done in a single pitch, but with lots of drag. would recommend using the first belay and skipping the second.

pitch 1: 5.7 - climb broken crack/gulley ~12m, traverse left in wide (4.5") arching crack, ascend another ~5m to belay ledge.

pitch 2: 5.7 - angle up and left on face, step left around roof, climb another few meters to obvious, but optional, belay ledge.

pitch 3: 5.6 - very short pitch. climb left, or straight up and traverse left, to arete. step left to ramp with old piton. easy boulder move to the ledge, and some scrambling to the top.

Location

start on ledge, in a broken crack/gully about 5m left of the obvious dihedral handcrack that forms the right edge of the huge arch. ledge is approached by trail from the right

Protection

standard rack to 3". plenty of stoppers. 4" protects the traverse on pitch 1. tri-cams come in handy

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