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Routes in North Basin

Big Corner Complete, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13
North Basin Headwall Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Arnold Wexler 1946
Page Views: 2,838 total · 58/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 2, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit Details
Access Issue: Consult with Park Rangers on climbing policy in such out-of-the-way areas Details

Description

TAKE RATING of 5.4-5.5 WITH A GRAIN OF SALT, IT MAY BE VERY "Old School"!
A very old route that climbs the large corner (see Photo ) which is hidden from view from Blueberry Knoll. Climb the large corner on mostly clean rock, after 4-6 pitches ('modern length pitches') the "Serpent's Head will be reached. (i.e. the large flat area on the "nose". Here best to climb up directly on a ridge (rib) ending on some beautiful Class 4 climbing.
Intercept the Howe Peaks Trail for descent.

Location

On North Basin of Katahdin.

Protection

Std Rack

Photos

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