Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 300 total · 5/month
Shared By: Phil Chai on Jul 1, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

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SDS on a wide ledge. Pull into 2 tiny crimps and move into a "right-facing feature" that can be crimped as well. Crux is finding the 2 crimps and being able to pull off them. Route is hard for its grade.


Located to the left of Low Rider




Danny Andrews
Austin, TX
Danny Andrews   Austin, TX
Got on this and could not find feet for the life of me. Did some break off? This just doesn't seem like a V4 to me in its current state. Apr 8, 2018
Phil Chai
Austin, TX
Phil Chai   Austin, TX
Danny, McKinney was established when V12 was the hardest grade climbed. Since grades have been inflated, McKinney grades should have gone up. But no one wants to do that. In reality, this climbs like a V5/6. It’s hard. With the exception of Siege Tactics, every problem feels hard for the grade. Apr 9, 2018
Danny Andrews
Austin, TX
Danny Andrews   Austin, TX
Hey Phil. Thanks for the history. Very interesting. ;)

One question though: "McKinney grades should have gone up. But no one wants to do that." Why not? If the grades are inaccurate/sandbagged, why not update them to actually reflect their difficulty? What's the point of a grading system if it differs from place to place? Regardless, this grade doesn't even seem to be consistent with other V4's in the area, so I would argue it should be listed as a higher grade for that reason alone. (Not trying to be an asshat here. Just trying to pick someone's brain.) :) Apr 20, 2018
Time for a shitpost: FWIW McKinney was developed in the late '90s (mainly 1998-2000). Fred Nicole had sent Radja V14 in 1996. He sent La Danse des Balrogs 8B (V13) in 1992 and Dreamtime V14/15 in 2000. Ben Moon did Black Lung V13 in 2000. Jim Holloway had sent multiple V11/12s in Colorado in the mid-70s (Trice and Meathook) and Slapshot (V13?) in the late '70s. FWIW. There are more hard boulder problems that I didn't list.
Grades haven't inflated since then whatchu talkin about? McKinney grades are on par, ask anyone. The 'sandbagging' is all in your head and in your ego. Holds have broken and been chipped on Siege, it's pretty much another one of Mck's V4s now. Danny stop trying to make things make sense, they're never going to. Just climb and get shut down at mck like the rest of us, and maybe one day in winter on a cold, LED-lit night, we'll send our projs. Cheers May 21, 2018
Jesse Bruni
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Oof. Gonna have to disagree with jjj pretty hard with respect to "McKinney grades are on par". In 9 years I've never climbed at a more sandbagged bouldering area than McKinney falls. SOME of the lines are appropriate for the grades, most are sandbagged. In general if you can climb Vx at 90% of the bouldering areas in the country in N tries, at McKinney Vx will take you N + M tries (M > 0). Jun 21, 2018