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Routes in Spire Six

Empire State Building T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unapproachable T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Windy Perch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: M. Powell, B. Powell and B. Kamps: circa 1968
Page Views: 516 total · 11/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 1, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description based on the wavy crack. [Suggest Change]

A absolutely fabulous line on the south face of a massive formation located within the south westerly side of the Spire Six ridgeline.

Starts on a mostly-unprotectable slab which gives way to a sick, nearly dead vertical hand crack that can get steep within cruxy places.

A climb that would make King Kong himself proud!

The route has excellent rock quality after you move past some cruddy rock at the very beginning. After that it presents multiple physical challenges with the most dominating crux at the start of the crack. This route is not for the faint of heart or weak of mind, but it gobbles up gear, and gives ample rests when needed most.

Super-exciting and well worth the long hike and excruciating effort!

Location [Suggest Change]

Park in the Spires parking lot and take the trail till it forks. Take the right trail and work your way to the 5-6 gully. There is no need to enter the gully itself. Empire State Building is the imposing formation just east of Amphitheater Rock.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack with cams and nuts. Long slings are recommended. Double up on BD Camalots 0.75 - 3 if you really like the idea of sewing it up.

Photos

rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
First ascent of the Wavy Crack route August 7, 1964 Mark and Beverly Powell and Bob Kamps. Not "circa 1968" as currently noted in the description.

In August 1967 I did an independent route on the face to the right of the Wavy Crack. My belayer didn't follow; I don't remember why now, but I think the sun was setting. Back then the Wavy Crack was 5.9 and my route seemed a bit easier, so we called it 5.8. Now that the Wavy Crack is 5.10, it is possible that my route might seem undergraded. Aug 20, 2014

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