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Routes in 1. Butt Wall

Broomhillda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butt Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Going Greek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Cheek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Flatulence S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Matillda S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 506 total, 12/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 1, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb the steep, fractured crack above the alcove. Rather than start in the depths of the mini-cave at the base of the crack, you can also start on the face and clip the first bolt of Going Greek. Once in the crack proper, make some steep moves before the angle eases considerably and the climbing becomes juggy and relatively easy. Watch what you grab as some of the holds appear suspect and may be less-than-permanent. Moving left and right at different spots may help keep the grade at 5.8 to avoid cruxy spots. A 3 bolt anchor is found at the 100 foot height, just right of the crack and below the ledge with the large pine tree.

Location

This ascends the obvious, fractured crack above the alcove from which the bolted 5.8 and 5.9 sport routes start.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot, although you could place #4 and #5 sized Camalots if you wish.

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